11 November 2014
B-Kyu Tour of Penang - Clan Jetties, Sri Weld Foodcourt, Sunset on the Esplanade and Ramly Burgers
We're up before the sun once more, honest Mum, we really were. We pick a random Chinese coffee shop for breakfast.
We were given a tip to try iced Milo. Man, what a tip. Ice Milo is a deliciously teeth rottingly chocolatey sweet way to start the day.
Mr Shawn starts the day with roast duck on rice at Kedai Kopi Baru. Because he can.
Drinky poo menu...
Alison has a fiery start to the day with a Penang style prawn mee. If there's one soup she can't get enough of its this one.
The Kedai Kopi Baru is at the back of the Chow Rasta markets, near the giant crispy hanging pig. Oh, the pig. These kopi shops are usually a group of small businesses held together by a drinks master who can get you whatever you need, even suggest something to eat if you aren't sure.
We pick this Indian street stall on Tamil Street for second breakfast. They do a bit of everything. Dine in or take away.
Appam or hoppers and dunky sauces.
Snackages, boiled eggs and crisp vadai (lentil patties deep fried until super crisp).
Nasi lemak packets ready to go.
Man we love the little nasi lemak packets. Coconut rice with sambal and various toppings This one with udang, or prawn) wrapped in banana leaf. It's a fresh, spicy little ball of happy.
A wee breakfast sweety, something like a palm sugar lamington kueh. The coffee was sweeter than the sweety.
We go walking in the relative morning cool to find the Clan Jetties, long sticky-outy jetties that folks live on. The house in the background (above the water) takes guests. You can just spy a couple of jetty vacationers out on the side, enjoying the view and the erm, pleasant odours of the bay. It was about RM168 a night for a double.
Real life still goes on between the gift shops, there's clothes to be washed and flies to be not caught.
One little shop does durian puffs, which are like funky cream puffs. Stinky, creamy and weird tasting, oh man they were good.
Get in early before the tour groups...
The day starts heating up and we waddle through Georgetown down near the fancy end.
The Sri Weld Foodcourt is great at lunch time.
Nasi lemak under construction. Apparently this Malay stall is quite famous, it's right at the front so you can't miss it.
We see one of our favourite Malaysian soups under construction: pan mee. The noodles are made fresh on the spot with a hand roller, a good sign.
A classic pan mee: fresh noodles with a clear broth and lots of crunchy anchovies and shreds of black fungus on top. Oh mama. RM3.50. They are served with a little dish of fresh red and green chillis in soy and half a kalamansi lime. The broth is flecked with pork mince, clean and really refreshing.
We've circled around the old town back towards Little India. This roadside stall lures us, even as the heat of the day rises.
Chef pours batter from a little container with holes in the bottom...
...to make this pretty lacy rotis.
The rotis are light and crisp, perfect for curry dunkage. We would have loved just the sauce and not the meat, it alone was wonderful.
Chef is a proud and very friendly fella.
A superb looking economy rice stall that we sadly don't have stomach space for.
Groovy coffee shop.
We feel the need to squeeze in a mee goreng at the joint opposite our hotel.
It's taken us twenty years to realise how amazing a good mee goreng can be. Stir fried yellow noodles with loads of spice and hunks of sotong, potato and not too much grease. We like to get it from the Indian cooks, these guys really know how to spice stuff up.
After a day of snacking around town we head out for some cool sea breeze. The Esplanade / Padang Kota food court is a popular spot for sunset snacks and drinky-poos and if you time it right, a big ocean liner to watch sail off into the distance.
We've never had pasembur so we give it a crack at this stall.
You pick out all the bits and pieces you want at the front, the nice man plates it up and covers in sauce.
Our pasembur with bits of fried fish cake, little sausages, prawn fritters, egg and sotong, covered in a sweet, spicy, nutty sauce. It's fun and very filling. We liked it but have never been in a hurry to get another one.
The other big special dish here was a plate of cockles, another great thing to quietly pick at while the sun set. Not many of the stalls here sell beer, and they don't seem to open up until a little later towards the early evening.
For sweeties we pick this stall...
ABC Special - crushed ice flavoured with syrups and covered with sweets, nuts and two scoops of vanilla ice cream.
The esplanade is peaceful at twilight.
We go for a stroll around Little India. At sunset a walk through these streets is filled with sounds and smells.
Little India pussycat on patrol.
This street sweet stall in Little India looks ripe for second dessert...
We get this big sweet fried crunchy red lentil thing with bits of hard white icing sugar. It breaks off into snack sizes, like sweet crisps.
For din dins we're compelled to try a Ramly Burger.
Chef starts cooking by laying down egg to make a rough thin omellette. His artful method involved cracking the egg a little and swirling it over the hotplate (a little like the lacy roti) until it is a round circle.
That wise chef puts the burger patties on top of the egg and adds mayonnaise for good luck. The buns are cooked on the same grill after the burgers in order to soak up all the meat juices.
The finished product. We thought these would be crap but they were rather marvelous in a hyper junk foody way.
We love Penang.